"Cavalli opened and closed with fifties fit-and-flare dresses, bare at the shoulders. For day they came in white, embroidered with pastel wisteria and mimosa blossoms; after dark they were accessorized with rhinestone tiaras like those you'd see at a high-school prom or a debutante ball. In between, he went to Peru, knitting up colorful homespun sweaters, printing black cashmere jackets with vibrant roses, and embroidering both a sweet pinafore dress and a sexy bustier with paillettes in floral shapes. Black sequins at the necklines of chiffon intarsia tank dresses protected the models' modesty coming, but going was an altogether different story.
The show didn't hold together quite like Spring had—and then there was the caveat that, despite a few, almost craftsy patchworked furs, it didn't feel like a Fall collection. Not that the Cavalli faithful will much mind. They have the financial wherewithal to winter somewhere warm, and, once there, a black broderie anglaise dress—the show's loveliest look—will suit them just fine."
We're with them on the "not feeling like a Fall collection" thing. Oh sure, the days of strictly sticking to autumnal colors are gone (for now), but the pastel florals seem to be leaning too far in the other direction. We'll always applaud a designer willing to plunge up to their elbows in prints, so he definitely gets marks for that. We also like the Peruvian inspiration, but it's a little too Machu Picchu for us. The silhouettes are pretty, if a little basic. We just don't love the color choices for the most part. Not because they're not the expected harvest colors, but because some of them are too over-saturated. And while we're not hardcore "fur is murder" anti-animal skin advocates, we have to say that the use of it in this collection was off-putting. More of a "slap some fur on it" aesthetic than anything else. The effect is a little gross.
[Photos: Lexposure.net/Getty Images]
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